Post by williamtk2018 on Feb 1, 2019 18:28:45 GMT -5
I just bought a Recording King RD-A9M for far less than new price because it was advertised as having a warped neck. The way the problem was described made it sound more like a truss rod issue. Curiousity about these inexpensive solid wood guitars got the better of me, along with thinking I could probably fix it.
Here's the thing: when I look down the neck, it doesn't appear twisted or warped. Instead, it looks like all the frets are even, but the nut sticks up higher toward the end with the 6th string. I sighted down my Seagull, and it doesn't look like that.
It appears that the nut is glued on correctly, so pushing it down won't cure the problem. I'm thinking about removing the nut and carefully sanding the excess, but have doubts as to whether or not that's a good idea.
Has anyone else had a problem like this, and are replacement nuts available for these? It looks like it could be a nice instrument if I can get it to behave.
What is the neck relief for both E's? Press the 1st & 14th fret and check the gap at the 7th. They should be the same. If one is much more than the other the neck is twisted. Hopefully, it isn't.
To check the nut, for each string press at the 3rd fret. Check the gap at the 1st fret. Ideally, you just want to hear a plink and there be very little movement. If the low E is high and the nut action is tapered as you go towards the high E, you can probably knock out the nut and sand the low E side. This is risky is the guitar was lacquered with the nut on. You must cut the lacquer all the way around. Then loosen the strings and find something to knock the nut towards the tuners. It's still risky because some of the headstock could stay attached to the bottom of the nut.
How does it play? Is it just high action at the 1st fret or high over all, fret buzzes? Some acoustics are set up where the low E is a bit higher then lowering to the high e at the nut. Some are like CTGull describes it.
I'd check it as CTGull suggests just get an idea what is a possible issue.
You should start checking the relief then the nut then the saddle .If you lower the saddle first and the nut is high then the 12 fret action will lower a bit.
If the low E is high and the nut action is tapered as you go towards the high E, you can probably knock out the nut and sand the low E side. This is risky is the guitar was lacquered with the nut on. You must cut the lacquer all the way around. Then loosen the strings and find something to knock the nut towards the tuners. It's still risky because some of the headstock could stay attached to the bottom of the nut.
It's a real bone nut and looks fragile. When you talk about knocking the nut loose, do you mean pushing it forward toward the headstock, or sideways?
How does it play? Is it just high action at the 1st fret or high over all, fret buzzes?
I'm getting fret buzz on the D string when I have the capo on the second fret.
Otherwise, it's not a bad player. Action is a little higher than my personal preference, but I'm hesitant to adjust it too much as I bought this to fix and flip if possible. It has a nice tone, though, and is kind of growing on me.
I knock the nut out to the back. But don't do it unless you really have to.
Is the nut action about the same for all strings? We're talking much less than 1/64" here. Ideally, you should hear a plink but barely any movement.
It doesn't sound too bad.
I just did the nut action test again. There is a small amount of visible movement on E and A, and they sound like metallic tapping rather than plinking. D seems less mobile, but also sounds tappy. G, B, and high E sound plinky.
Post by williamtk2018 on Feb 3, 2019 15:50:50 GMT -5
I did another neck relief check using a feeler gauge, and have that set to .008 or .009.
I also used a credit card to check the fret height, and figured out that the 4th fret was just a smidge higher than the ones beside it, and I tapped it down with a plastic tipped jeweler's mallet. I think that cured the fret buzz I was experiencing with the capo on the 2nd fret.
Post by williamtk2018 on Feb 4, 2019 0:51:54 GMT -5
From a workmanship standpoint, no one's going to mistake this for a solid wood Martin, Taylor, or any of the other well-known brands whose products tend to fall above the $600 line. And I'm pretty sure a discerning ear wouldn't be tricked by its tone. But for what it is, it's a step above what's often found in the under $300 category.