I agree that the old Gulls were better, for the neck specs alone. And don't get me started about the current Seagull aesthetics! But of the six Seagull/S&Ps I've owned, none had neck problems. Each of my current four look to outlast me.
I am very new to this forum today and I know very little. I am buying a seagull and I started to worry about the epoxy neck but it looks like it is not uncommon. repairable? may be with the truss rod it is more of an issue.
Seagull didn't start using epoxy in the necks until 2006. Hide glue isn't that easy to remove. I do neck resets on vintage Yamaha FG acoustic guitars. They range from "that didn't hurt too bad" to "I think I just had a heart attack!". A loose neck joint (like mass produced Harmony's) can be fairly easy, but a well made guitar with a tight joint can be tough because you can't get steam into the areas to soften the glue. Here's an example. yamahavintagefg.boards.net/thread/303/customer-repair-1971-yamaha-150 And that one wasn't too bad.
Thank you CTgull It looks like a neck reset is about 300.00 so I guess the lower end seagulls it makes sense that you would not spend that on a repair. My wife had a yamaha that she bought in 1975 it took months to pay it off on layaway back then. She loved that guitar I don't know the model number at the time it was about 150.00. I have done some work with hide glue making turntable plinths I like the way it works I have removed it on veneer with water after it was dry but I did destroy the veneer in the process. I can imagine a guitar neck would be a lot tougher. I understand the epoxy on the 500.00 guitars but on the 1000 + guitars I would think something less permanent would make sense.In any event I ended up buying the seagull guitar it plays better than any others I have owned the action is superb and I am really enjoying it. Hopefully it will not have any neck issues. thank you