It should be fairly easy to get the fretboard off. I use a 90W halogen light with a heat shield on the top. Can't justify the heat blanket.
I'd be afraid of routing the slot deeper. No room for error. I have the compact plunge router, the plastic jig, the down cut router bits, and the Stew Mac 1/8" to 1/4" adapter collet. Something runs out and it cuts about .004" oversize.
They used epoxy to glue the neck extension to the big neck block. I'd love to try to take one apart if I could find a junker.
Post by freemankeller on Nov 6, 2019 12:17:10 GMT -5
Just to wrap this up, the fretboard extension separated fine with a heat blanket and a couple of pallet knifes., Bolted butt joint, I've never seen one on a factory guitar (pretty common on ukuleles) and of course that is what I used on my sawn off neck reset.
Reset went smoothly, I slightly overset the neck to the 0.250 thick bridge. The electronics had a broken wire and the owner said he never used them so I took the UST out which gave me a marginal but usable saddle slot. Made a new saddle, leveled and dressed the frets and played it for a couple of hours last night. I want to give the neck a week or so to settle in, then I'll return it to the owner.
The more I look at this the more I think this short bridge was that way from the factory. The top does look like it was scraped or sanded but several people have measured bridges and report them all the way from 0.250 to 0.400. Is it possible that they bolt the neck on then choose a bridge that is close and use that? The neck heel did have some numbers on it that tells me it may have not been finessed to fit the guitar after it was manufactured.
Anyway, thanks again CT, it is always good to chat with you.