Post by CTGull on Jan 27, 2020 6:44:43 GMT -5
While refretting an acoustic guitar isn’t as hard as a neck reset, there is a certain level of unknown when refretting a vintage Yamaha FG acoustic guitar. They used frets that have .018” tangs, vs. the standard of .020” today. This might seem trivial, but the extra interference can cause a slight back bow in the neck. This might be useful for a neck that has an excessive forward bow, but not something you normally want.
Also, the method for fret retention is different on vintage Yamaha’s. Until 1977 they crushed the end of the fret tang, vs. today’s dimples on the sides of the fret tang. This made the vintage Yamaha frets much harder to install. They also crushed the frets into the fretboard, sometimes making removal difficult because there is no space under them. Also, if you use water to soften the fretboard when removing the frets, the water will cause the fret slots to swell slightly, making them a little smaller. The fret slots MUST be opened up with a fret slotting saw. Today’s saws measure .023” wide. Since modern frets have .020” wide tangs and dimples on the sides, opening the slot to .023” makes installation easier, vs. the interference fit (mashed tangs) for vintage Yamaha’s.
There is another unknown, typical of vintage Yamaha FG’s. For approximately 2 years, from the beginning of 1969 to early 1971 (with some overlap) they used .028” tang frets. These slots don’t need to be opened. The be replaced they need less common frets with .024” tangs to have a chance of staying in the fretboard.
I use LMII FW74 for fret replacement or complete refrets for vintage Yamaha’s that have .018” tang frets. I use LMII FW75 for complete refrets for .028” tang frets. Replacing individual .028” tang frets is a bit harder. There isn’t one perfect fret. Dunlop’s 6S6200 is a good upper dimensional match (and a .045” fret tang stud width), but is a softer 12% nickel silver. Dunlop’s 6260 and 6S6260 are also a good upper dimensional match and 18% nickel silver, but the fret tang studs are only .037” and may not hold well in the wide fret slots.
I originally created this document for myself to record the steps I took to replace the frets on a few vintage Yamaha FG’s, based on what I’ve read and watched online and a few discussions with luthiers. It is not the only way to do it. I sometimes overcomplicate things. If you have a better method feel free to share it in the forum or send me an email at YamahaVintageFG@gmail.com. I’m always looking to learn new ways to do things. I will sometimes update this document if I get new ideas, learn from the one I just did, or get new information.
The current version (v2.2.0), dated 4/6/20, is available here --> Refretting a Vintage Yamaha FG
Also, the method for fret retention is different on vintage Yamaha’s. Until 1977 they crushed the end of the fret tang, vs. today’s dimples on the sides of the fret tang. This made the vintage Yamaha frets much harder to install. They also crushed the frets into the fretboard, sometimes making removal difficult because there is no space under them. Also, if you use water to soften the fretboard when removing the frets, the water will cause the fret slots to swell slightly, making them a little smaller. The fret slots MUST be opened up with a fret slotting saw. Today’s saws measure .023” wide. Since modern frets have .020” wide tangs and dimples on the sides, opening the slot to .023” makes installation easier, vs. the interference fit (mashed tangs) for vintage Yamaha’s.
There is another unknown, typical of vintage Yamaha FG’s. For approximately 2 years, from the beginning of 1969 to early 1971 (with some overlap) they used .028” tang frets. These slots don’t need to be opened. The be replaced they need less common frets with .024” tangs to have a chance of staying in the fretboard.
I use LMII FW74 for fret replacement or complete refrets for vintage Yamaha’s that have .018” tang frets. I use LMII FW75 for complete refrets for .028” tang frets. Replacing individual .028” tang frets is a bit harder. There isn’t one perfect fret. Dunlop’s 6S6200 is a good upper dimensional match (and a .045” fret tang stud width), but is a softer 12% nickel silver. Dunlop’s 6260 and 6S6260 are also a good upper dimensional match and 18% nickel silver, but the fret tang studs are only .037” and may not hold well in the wide fret slots.
I originally created this document for myself to record the steps I took to replace the frets on a few vintage Yamaha FG’s, based on what I’ve read and watched online and a few discussions with luthiers. It is not the only way to do it. I sometimes overcomplicate things. If you have a better method feel free to share it in the forum or send me an email at YamahaVintageFG@gmail.com. I’m always looking to learn new ways to do things. I will sometimes update this document if I get new ideas, learn from the one I just did, or get new information.
The current version (v2.2.0), dated 4/6/20, is available here --> Refretting a Vintage Yamaha FG