My G7 compensated 12-string capo came in the mail today. I've just spent half an hour or so with it on my Guild 12-string, and OMG!!! This is THE capo for 12-string. It doesn't pull any of the strings sharp and works perfectly. I can't recommend it highly enough if you have a 12-string (at least if you're playing a Guild; unlike RobertW , I haven't tried it on any other brands.) Thanks, RobertW , for pointing out this one to us!
Last Edit: Feb 21, 2020 15:26:18 GMT -5 by Deleted
As I mentioned in other thread, I tried it on 5 other brands. Gretsch Rancher G5022cwfe12 Fender Villager problems Norman B20-12 Washburn HD10SCE12 Epiphone DR-212 12st problems None of these were attractive to me. The Fender was 1.77nut like my last Fender 12. Simply insane. The Rancher is way too gaudy (gold metalflake! why not cow horns on the headstock too? Ill never understand why I almost took it in trade for the crap Fender 12 string.
Washburn and Epiphone were very heavy and bulky. The Norman was ok. When I was hunting 12 strings I almost pulled trigger on one.
Is the screw just used once to set the gap for the guitar, then a "quick release" is used to remove and reinstall it each time?
Yep. And your supposition is half-right; if you only have one guitar on which you're using this style of capo and you're always using it at the same fret, the adjustment screw is essentially a non-issue as long as those two conditions hold (though you might have to tweak it now and again.)
For me, since I rarely-to-never use a capo on my 12-string anywhere but at the second fret (to put it into E-standard tuning since I have the instrument tuned down a whole step), that second condition is also a non-issue. But for someone who frequently moves the capo around the fretboard, they might be having to adjust the tension with the adjustment screw far more often.
IMHO, if you are moving the capo around a great deal, you are better off with a 6-string - steel or nylon... 🤔😁
I am not going to wait until Father's Day... 🎊🎈🎉💸
As someone who generally only uses a capo to move up a semi-tone or two, I largely agree. If I need to shift keys drastically, I do that by transposing chords, not by moving the capo. But I've known musicians who do move the capo all the fretboard—a friend of mine who I often encounter in music circles, will capo her guitar all the way up on the 7th to 10th fret, not something I've ever done. But hey, to each their own. I'm not going to criticize her or anyone else for how they use their capos.
And don't wait until Father's Day!
Last Edit: Feb 24, 2020 14:46:37 GMT -5 by Deleted
I have been giving it a work out: moving between 2, 5, and 9th. Always have to readjust for the extreme 2 to 9 change but 2 to 5 is often fine.
I am about to try it on baritone, I have a feeling the capo may do a better job than the high tension capos on the thick baritone strings. …[10 mins later]... It does, but not on the 1st to 3rd strings. ;(
The capo inventor is looking into the minor(?) issue of capo rotating at around 4th fret when adjusted to eliminated muting on 1st and 6th octave string after proper lateral positioning. This rotation results in 1st or 6th octave string being muted.
This image is taken from nut with capo backlit by a cob led (pointless source).
What I see when zoomed in surprised me. All that light under the pad! None of the strings are pressed against fretboard. The only place the capo touches fretboard is the 6th string-pair pad. For me this explains why neck pad is able to be a rotation point.
Thoughts? Perhaps the instruction to adjust only until the two strings are not longer muted need clarification?
RobertW , said:.... The only place the capo touches fretboard is the 6th string-pair pad.
The pad of the capo and the strings for that matter, whether fretted (chorded) by a capo or your fingers, don't have to be touching the fret board wood; they only have to be touching the fret wire and have enough tension on the back side to produce the note on the string.
Having all the strings (whether chording or capo'ing) touching the wood all the time is called "gorilla gripping." It's not always necessarily bad if you have low action (I do it all the time, I'm a "firm" chorder) but it's not necessarily proper either. The tighter the strings are gripped, the more likely stuff gets pulled sharp, especially if you do not have very low action.
So, I don't think what you're looking at with the light getting through is the actual problem, but, who knows, I'm not looking at it or testing it myself with my own hands so this is just theoretical.
It could be that the capo isn't putting enough pressure down as well. Not saying that's not possible. I would just adjust it a bit so it has a bit more pressure each time and see what happens to be sure.
But, how many strings or how much of the capo rubber is touching the fret board wood, would not be the baseline I would use to try to solve this because all that tells you is how much you're "gorilla gripping" the strings.
Just my 2 nickels (pennies are worth squat now).
===================================== One Alvarez in the hand is worth two Taylors and a Martin in the guitar store!
I believe the problem is fretboard radius. Coastline 12 has very little. As Nick Campling told me, all capos use a compromise radius.
the S12 is Radius 16.0" OR ….that is pretty flat
Increasing pressure solve s problem or rotations but; the capo is not putting enough pressure down because I am following the instructions to only tighten screw until 1st & 6th aren't muted. I have been making the point with G7th that their instructions can contribute to people thinking they fixed nothing Lateral position is incredibly important with this capo. It should be tightened enough that the strings arn't muted AND it cannot be rotated on neck pad.
Re the abrasiveness of the thumb screw. The best way to avoid that is to follow the SHUBB instructions! Adjust screw then lock lever and test strings. DO not try to adjust screw with lever locked. The G7th and Shubb lock & release design are very similar.
I'll be updating the 1st post with this information.