This is the second H1260 I've bought bought, although it was nearly 20 months ago. Got it for $25! It's a basket case!! I bought it to learn about them before working on my good H1260. This one needs a neck reset, has many cracks in the top including on either side of the neck, crazing all over, white paint splattered on the back, and what looks to be solvent spatter drops all over that dissolved the finish. It's a mess!! And there's a huge amount of dust inside of it.
These are pics I took after I got it.
Cracks on both sides of the neck has tipped the neck block inward.
And I discovered not only is the saddle low, someone has sanded the bridge lower. THEN, I noticed they sanded the bridge so low they must have cut the saddle slot deeper with a file!!! I'm going to have to cut a deeper slot!!
But the first thing I'm going to do is humidify it. I want to get the structural stuff fixed first.
I put a small light inside the guitar (7W I think) which heats the wet sponges in the bags, and humidifies the interior of the guitar. The soundhole is mostly covered to hold the humidity in. I started at 73.0 degrees and 39% humidity an hour ago. I'll let it sit there there for the rest of the week, checking the temp/humidity, sponges, and cracks daily.
Not much change. I notice the top was starting to bulge so I added a top strap clamp to hold it at 1/8". The main crack doesn't look like it's closed much.
And today I made a guitar body rack in what little dead space I have in my small area. It's a 2x4 screwed to the wall with 1/2" wide x 1" deep slots for (2) pieces of 1/2" plywood.
Accented by the Tractor Supply hat on the drafting lamp (heat source) and, YamaBass, 1975 FG-75-1, and a dusty 1967 FG-150. to the left is the neck holder for sighting fret level and a ukulele. And CD's I haven't played in decades.
(4) days of internal 70% humidity and no obvious change in the top cracks.
I figured while I'm waiting I could level the frets. The first step is to remove the truss rod cover. I don't think it's ever been removed. the screws were very oxidized and tight. And the truss rod cover had cracked in the corner thru one of the screw holes after installation, which fell apart when I removed it. I glued it back together with some superglue.
Then the fun part. Obviously, the truss rod had never been adjusted. The truss rod threads were rusted and the nut wouldn't move. AND, the nut is a 1/4" hex, not the 5/15"/8mm hex the vintage Yamaha's use. I found a 1/4" nut driver but it wouldn't fit into the pocket. I sanded the OD down from .41" to .39". The next problem is the threads are rusted and even with a wrench on the nut driver, the TR nut won't budge. So I put some Liquid Wrench on the threads and waited a few minutes. It worked great!! The nut loosened! So I measured the nut (1/4" hex, 3/8" long, 8-32 thread), lubed the threads, and reinstalled the nut. The nut driver worked great to adjust the TR nut to somewhat level the fretboard.
one day you will be making videos for Stewart MacDonald
They had an opening last year. I considered. But I'd have to move to Ohio. And I think they were looking for a young apprentice with some experience. I think I'll stick to my day job, since I still have one. And still work on stuff at night.
I have been buying way too many of their tools lately. Some of the stuff they sell is overly complicated. Most are very expensive. But some of them are the only was to do the job. Last week they delivered a quarter round fret crowning file and some cocobolo bridge blanks. I just ordered some truss rod wrenches I don't have, one to replace the hacked up nut driver I used on the Harmony H1260 truss rod nut removal. Maybe I could find them on eBay for less, but I'd have to pay for shipping and wait days to weeks. I want to work on it now! I'll probably have them Thursday. More tools!!