Finally replaced the bridge pins.

I always slot the E & A holes, so the string slides freely without the pin binding the windings. It's just the right thing to do.

It sucks that there is so much variation in the sizes and angles of bridge pins. You should just be able to buy a set and drop them in, BUT sell some that are clearly marked oversize for worn holes.

blues90, CTGull, I have a couple sets of persimmon pins... the sides of the slots in the pins were a bit splintery, so I used fine sand paper and a jeweler file to smooth them and put a slight angle to them (the slots) which helped the strings fit better into/against the pin. I have a pretty good eye for detail so getting the angle I wanted wasn't a big deal.

I do wish there was an industry standard though. But, manufacturers don't seem to pay attention to their own standards sometimes, so adhering to an industry standard wouldn't accomplish much. It still comes down to Quality Control accepting tolerances they shouldn't. From what I recall when I ran a CNC machine, after the few initial pieces are where they are wanted, tolerance wise, then only every few (10 - 100?) were checked.
Plastic is cheap and readily susceptible to temperature. But, even Martin uses plastic pins on 00017's...
which is odd since they use ebony on the 00015M...